Overland Camping Trip through Botswana & Namibia - Part 2

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Added: Sat. Mar 20, 2010 11:20pm
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Onward to Northern Namibia: Day 11

Wednesday 3rd

All good things come to an end; today we have a long trip ahead of us again. Our few days at Drotsky’s Cabins were a wonderful break and very well worth while. The owners and staff are friendly and helpful, the place is well maintained and reasonably priced – a definite recommendation from the Hutchisons.

So once again it was an early wake-up (by now this was more or less our routine anyway, waking with the light and sleeping when it got dark) and striking camp in time to reach the border post at Mahembo just after opening time. Cleared the border without incident and shortly after 8.00 am remembered to stop at Ndhovo Value Stores to buy our Namibian Road Permit. Somehow you’re expected to know these things! I would never dream that you would be buying a road permit from a trading store! Of course this was an opportunity to get more ICE (it was already hot!). Had to pump the left hand side wheel on the trailer, may be a slow leak? Luckily we carry our little 12 volt powered compressor – a lifesaver. At the same time checked the wheel nuts and sure, as “nuts” they needed tightening! Every 500KM – CHECK those wheel nuts. For some reason, which I have never fully understood, the wheel nuts on a trailed vehicle seem to be prone to working loose.

Erica in the meantime, topped up our provisions from the Ndhovo Value Store. Then back on the road again …….

A long trip today, again on the Caprivi Strip heading ever westwards toward Etosha. We stopped at a picnic site under a lonely tree alongside the road for some tinned fruit and cream, which my clever wife had cooled, in the icebox. Very welcome indeed. We stopped for fuel at Grootfontein and then onwards to Tsumeb. This being a reasonably sized town we decided to stock up with some perishables for the days in the Etosha Game Reserve. Just one problem here ….. no room in the cooler box. Now being the good man that I am, I was obliged to remove a couple of cold beers to make place for the …… well you get it, right?

Also being a reasonable man, there was NO WAY that I could let those two cold beers go to waste in 42 deg. Ambient! So I did my civic duty and “disposed” of them. From Tsumeb we continued another 80KM or so to the Von Lindequist Gate and then a further 12KM to Fort Namutoni, our first campsite in the Etosha National Park. On the way in we saw Kudu and Giraffe.

 Now this is a different story as far as charges go. Remember that we were camping, using our own equipment and self-catering to boot. Entry to the park = (Namibian dollar = S A Rand) N$20.00. “Usage fee Two nights N$120.00 Two nights camping N$470.00 Total For first two nights = N$610.00 When arriving at the next camp we again had to pay N$120.00 “Usage” and N$470.00 for the next two nights camping = Total N$590.00. So four nights camping cost us N$1 200.00 – no power, no meals, no guide, no boat or game trips etc. We decided to stay for four days instead of six as originally envisaged.

Nuff said.

Apart from the pricing issue the park is great. Ablutions in  good clean working order and friendly staff. We soon became acquainted with the resident warthogs in the camp, followed by the black-backed jackals (rabies warning!) and a family of banded mongese so I guess that the fencing around the campsites is somewhat suspect!

We found a campsite under some thorn trees for shade and soon had our camp set up. We were becoming dab hands at setting up and striking camp by now. After a leisurely meal cooked on the campfire by the light of our kerosene lamp we scuttled off to bed for a well-deserved rest, having covered over 700KM in the searing heat of the day.

 

Namutoni , Etosha: Day 12

Thursday 4th

As usual we were up at the crack of dawn and took a self-drive from Namotoni around the Fischers Pan via the Two Palms and Aroe waterholes and back to camp for breakfast. Along the way we came across an old “kill” with a number of hyena, jackals and vultures in attendance. Later we strolled over to the swimming pool near the fort and had a cooling dip for about half an hour, forgetting for the moment that we were in northern Namibia in summertime at midday. Who would think that you could get sun burnt within 30 minutes! This after already having spent some one and a half weeks living in the outdoors! Then I went and stood on a thorn, which Erica had to extricate for me. But by the evening and a bit of TLC I was feeling fine again (although still glowing in the dark) and we cooked a piece of lamb rib on the coals. It was beautifully tender meat (bought in Tsumeb) and Erica’s spice was perfect.

 

Namutoni , Etosha: Day 13

Friday 5th

In the morning we struck camp and topped up with fuel at Fort Namutoni before leaving on a leisurely drive in the general direction of our next camp at Halali. We took most of the morning to travel the 75 KM to Halali , game viewing along the way. We saw too many animals to mention here. (By the way I have appended a viewing list at the end of this document.)

The viewing at the Goas waterhole is particularly rewarding with a large number of different species being present at the same time – don’t miss this one.

We got to the campsite at about midday and after setting up camp just “chilled” there during the heat of the day. I.e. absorbed a few cold ones. The breeze was blowing hot over our still sun burnt bodies and the cicadas were squealing their hot summer tune. Have you noticed how they seem to be in colonies? I’ve never managed to SEE a cicada in nature.

Feeling much refreshed after a cold lunch and a much needed shower, we left for our evening game drive at 4.15 pm. We decided to return to the waterhole at Goas and were amazed when we got there because the previously teeming waterhole was almost devoid of animals. There were a few giraffe standing around nervously, a couple of buck and some yellow-billed kites. Soon we found out why … there were three lions prowling around the perimeter of the open area around the hole, obviously on the lookout for a meal. As usually happens we could not stay to watch any developments since the waterhole is some 14KM north of Halali and the gates close at 7.00pm, so we had to wend our way back again.

Incidentally the name “Halali” apparently derives from the sound bugle call used by the Germans during their hunting in the area in times gone by.

Tonight Erica is roasting a “chook” (chicken) in the COB. (The Cob is a cooker, which uses charcoal pellets as heat source and is basically a small oven, which can also be used as a smoker.) After the chook had been consumed (Yes we had half each!) we were off to a good nights sleep. Not to be however; In the early hours of the morning there was a tremendous wind storm which in no time at all had whipped up enough dust to qualify as a dust storm. We had to leap out of bed (oh yes, believe it or not, we can still leap when we have to!!) and tie down window flaps, fly sheet and catch sundry towels etc. By then everything inside and out was already covered with fine white dust. Including our bedding, of course. Oh the joys of camping in the wild.

 

Halali , Etosha: Day 14

Saturday 6th

By morning light it was calm and partially cloudy with a chance of some rain to break the heat. We decided to take a cereal breakfast with us and re-visit the Goas waterhole in the hopes of finding the lion again. We set off in high hopes and enjoyed a relaxed breakfast in the vehicle at the waterhole, but alas, no lion today. We did see a beautiful Eland come down to the water though as well as a raptor sitting on its nest which we could not identify even with the binoculars due to the angle of view.

Then we moved onto the Etosha Pan itself where we drove out into the eerie silence surrounded by an unworldly vista of the pan. A 360-degree view to the horizon – absolutely flat, no blade of grass, no termite mound, animal, insect nor bush. We could just as well have been on another planet. And so very QUIET.

Millions of years ago this was the bed of an inland sea and around the edges of the pan one can easily identify what would have been the shores of that sea; lagoons, river mouths and sand dunes. It is mind boggling to imagine that such a massive body of water can simply dry up over time. We spent some minutes in this strange environment, experiencing the uniqueness of being alone for as far as the eye could see in any direction with absolutely no landmark except for the straight dust road that we had travelled on to get to this point.

This would be the right place to be for deep reflection and self-examination, for philosophical wanderings of the mind and exploration of ones spiritual being. I cannot imagine a better place for such mental freedom, without any distraction excepting the sounds created by one’s own body.

Starting the motor was almost sacrilege, breaking that amazing silence with its harsh mechanical sound. From the big pan we continued to the waterholes at Salvadora, Charitsaub and Sueda where we saw a wide variety of antelope, large herds of springbok, zebra, wildebeest and gemsbok. Travelling in direction Ondongab we came across a parks maintenance crew manning a road grader, which appeared to be giving mechanical trouble. We stopped to find out if they needed assistance from camp. As we pulled up though, an official parks vehicle pulled up with a supervisor on board. We were rewarded by the information that if we turned back and took the side road no more than 50 meters behind us we would find a pride of lions next to the road about 200m along that road. Had we not stopped to assist we would have continued on our way without knowing what we had missed. So, thanking these good folk for their info. , We turned around and took the side road back towards the Halali campsite. Sure enough a few hundred meters along we found a young pride of at least 12 lions on both sides of the road, anything from 3m to 20m distant from us. They were still in playful mood and had not yet settled down in the shade for the day, so we had a good view of the younger cubs playing together so much like domesticated cats. One was playing with a stick and kept picking it up and pawing it as a cat would play with a mouse. We got some beautiful pictures on my trusty (although ageing) Minolta 35mm camera – Yes, I do still use it! We have not yet graduated to a digital camera. I get the photo shop to load the pictures onto CD instead of printing them – it’s cheaper and I can then work with them on the PC and e-mail to friends and family. So we’re kind of in-between the old and the new technology.

After spending quite some time observing the lion pride, we continued back to camp to get more ICE and also to buy another tape for the video camera. Then we moved on to the waterhole at Rietfontein where we saw numerous elephant including a number of young playing in the water.

Eventually we returned to camp, prepared the evening meal and lazed around the campsite until zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

 

Gross Barmen: Day 15

Sunday 7th

Up with the birds again, packed up to get an early start for our long trip today to Gross Barmen, a resort at the hot mineral springs about 25KM north of Windhoek, only to find that as of this morning the gate opening times had been changed from 6.00 to 6.30 am – so sat at the closed gate for half an hour waiting for the ranger. The road from Halali camp to Okaukuejo is badly corrugated, a surface similar to a washboard that develops on some dirt roads. No matter how often graded it is not long before the corrugated surface re-develops. Like potholes, these seem to have something to do with the underground rock structure or strata. Even surfacing the road with bitumen does not always provide a lasting solution. Anyway, we rattled along all the way except for the last 10 KM or so, which was good dirt road. What peace after all the rattling and juddering! We could not maintain a speed of more than 25KM per hour for fear of shaking the vehicles apart. At Okaukuejo we topped up with fuel and (of course!) more ICE. Indeed a precious commodity in this part of the world. A beautiful tarred road with stretches still under construction, so a few detours via Otavi, Otjiwarongo, and Okahandia to Gross Barmen Hot Springs. Here we found a pleasant, although dusty campsite with plenty of shade trees and clean facilities. No power, however at N$60.00 per night. There is a small shop on site but their ice machine was broken, So NO ICE! We did manage to get some boerewors (traditional South African spiced sausage), which we cooked, on the coals of an open fire together with some onions and tinned vegetables.

We had the camp to ourselves for the night and had a good rest. Strangely and noticeably there were no birds around this park for some unknown reason.

 

Gross Barmen: Day 16

Monday 8th

On Monday morning we had to undertake the 23 KM back to Okahandia for supplies, beer and the all-important ice. Luckily this is a good, although narrow, tarred road. While in town we also changed money at the small Standard Bank there and topped up with fuel. After returning to the springs we spent a lazy afternoon in camp enjoying a swim in the outside pool and a very brief dip in the (too) hot indoor pool. The rest of the day was spent catching up on some reading at the campsite. During the afternoon there was a thunderstorm developing with some strong wind preceding it but by 4.30 pm – still no rain, so we will cook on the open fire again this evening.

Tomorrow we plan to leave at a “civilized” hour and will probably travel to Gobabis, the last town, about 100 KM from the Botswana border post at Buitepos / Mamuno in order to reduce the long trek along the Trans-Kalahari Highway the next day. We are not sure where to overnight in Botswana, but there surely must be some facilities along this long stretch of highway of some 700 KM across Botswana from west to east. Of course if travelling in the opposite direction, that would be …. Oh never mind! We decided to take our chances – it would be too much to do the trip in one day.

In the late afternoon we again had to contend with a sudden windstorm, hastily adding extra tent pegs and securing flysheets etc,

 

Botswana Again: Day 17

Tuesday 9th

We left Gross Barmen at about 7.00 am (All things are relative) and travelled on the B1 highway toward Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia. We headed toward centre city then branching off to link with the B6 toward the airport and Goababis where we again topped up with fuel. Since it was only 9.45 am and still feeling “strong” we decided to continue through the border about 107 KM further east. This was also a reasonably painless border crossing although we had to (again) buy a road permit for the ute and trailer after having been told that the one we’d bought on entering the first time was valid for a year. This is only so if you STAY in the country, so we learned. Since we had been in and out a couple of times (documented) there was nothing to do except pay again! Pula 150.00 later and we continued into, once again ever rising temperatures as we crossed the Kalahari Desert now headed eastwards. Shortly after Tshootsa we turned off the Trans-Kalahari in the direction of Ghanzi to find an overnight campsite. About 38 KM further we entered the “metropolis” of Ghanzi , a true “outpost” in the trail burning tradition. By this time we had covered some 600 KM – so much for the “easy day” originally planned! We came across what looked like a well-equipped and maintained game lodge on the outskirts of the village. It had a campsite alongside and a number of up market chalets and bungalows on the property, but all locked up and deserted. Subsequently we heard from some of the locals that it had opened with much fanfare and plenty of finance available, operated for one year and then shut down under liquidation proceedings. Someone’s dream gone wrong, I guess. I must admit that I can’t imagine what attraction would have brought sufficient clientele to this remote place to ensure its commercial viability. Somebody’s “folly”?  There is a large sign on the road next to it announcing the imminent construction of a gas station. Oh well, it takes all types to make the world and some are more optimistic than others …….

Carrying on a bit further out of town we re-traced our path to a sign that we had spotted on the way in and turned left onto a quite horrific sand / dirt road across rocky outcrops. This was about 4KM out of “town”. Advertised at Pula 50.00 per night including electricity, swimming pool and bush pub next to a waterhole – sounded like our kind of place. So a bone rattling few Km along this track and we found the place. Immediately to the pub of course, and immediately spotted Eland with young at the water. Shortly after some Kudu came in to drink (at the waterhole, that is, not the pub). The owner, manning the bar, informed us that these were rarely seen due to having been hunted down by an increased population of cheetah in the area. In spite of this information, we have yet to come across one of these majestic predators. We made our booking and set up camp under a few trees close to the small ablution block. We had a good view to the open veldt, there being no fences or walls.

Liking what we have found, we were considering spending a second night in this delightful bush camp since we had saved a day by driving through from Gobabis in one shot. It had been a hot day again at 38 deg.C and again a threatening thunderstorm which by-passed our site. We were actually hoping that it would reach us if only to cool everything down a little. By now we were brown and weathered outdoor folk having been in the sun and wind for almost three weeks now. The heat was getting to us though and a cool thundershower would have been welcome.

That evening we grilled some topside shank and boerewors, which we ate with, tinned peas, fresh cucumber and tomato salad – Just what the doctor ordered. The fresh salad could just as well have been the desert, it was so tasty.

 

Thakadu Camp: Day 18

Wednesday 10th

That night we both slept well, waking early to the sounds of the surrounding bush and its inhabitants including various birds and a rabbit munching away at the grass a few meters from our site. We had a hearty breakfast made over a few twigs in the fireplace utilizing some left over boerewors from the night before, bacon and 4/7 eggs which had not yet “gone off” in the heat to make French toast with some stale bread. Added a healthy dollop of tomato sauce and we had a great bush breakfast to the sound of a myriad birds. While eating we were visited by the pink-eared rabbit, a crimson-breasted boubou (shrike) and Erica spotted a small buck, which she thought was a steenbokkie. Then it was into the village of Ghanzi in the never-ending search for ice and more liquids of various description. We decided to eat at the bush camp “restaurant” that evening where we spent some time around the pub with some locals that had dropped in. They were obviously regulars – characters who entertained us with their stories of the local are4a and their own past exploits at the pub. An excellent meal followed and then back to our tent for ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ.

 

Midrand, Johannesburg: Day 19

Thursday 11th

We struck camp early as usual, having paid our modest bill the evening before, and headed back to the Trans-Kalahari Highway, eventually by-passing Gaborone and through the border post (painless, once again) and on through Zeerust, Rustenburg and on to Midrand where we spent the next two nights in the luxury of a real bedroom with en-suite bathroom at the home of our daughter, Ellen, her husband Rowan and the grandchildren.

On arrival, the first priority was a long shower – even beer took a second place in the order of priority. Back to civilization again. We spent a great evening with our family and shared some of our experiences over the evening meal.

We travelled the remaining 500 odd KM back to Pinetown without incident on the Saturday 13th and after collecting Chelsea (the cat) from the kitty “hotel”, we returned to find all in order at home.

Sunday, of course, was spent mowing lawns, cleaning equipment and packing away in readiness for the next adventure!